Jacket
A suit should have a 10cm gap between the fabric and your body when you pull the front forward. Any more and it will look too big, less than about 7cm and it will put pressure on the seams. If you're wearing a single-breasted, three-button jacket, do up the top two buttons only. If your suit has two buttons then only fasten the top one. Jacket length is also important: too long and it will make your legs look shorter, too short and you'll look like you've borrowed your younger brother's suit. The jacket of a traditional lounge suit should stop just where the crease of your buttock meets your thigh.
Dinner jacket
If you are wearing a dinner jacket there are various collar types that will flatter different body shapes. A rounded shawl collar is great for a man with a thick neck or heavy upper body, while peaked lapels will jazz up a dinner suit by drawing the eye upwards. To add a subtle twist to the cuffs, why not have one of the buttons covered in a colour to match the lining? Small details such as this can personalise your suit.
Vents
If you have a large bottom or work out a lot and have a well-defined bottom half then two side vents will give the jacket enough room to move when you do. If you are very slim or have a flat bottom then a centre vent or no vent is better.
The best man
If you are getting a suit made for your best man, a small ring pocket with a zip on it will ensure there's no last-minute panic about the ring.
Posture
Your posture is an important factor in getting a suit to fit you properly. For example, if your head tilts forward this will lift the jacket at the back and create a gap between the collar and your neck. A suit that is cut perfectly for your shape - and in the right colour for your complexion - will go a long way to giving you a polished and well-dressed look.
Lapels
Peaked lapels are traditionally found on double-breasted suits as the shape of the lapel points upwards, taking your eye away from the buttons and balancing out the jacket. If you want to draw the eye upwards towards your face and away from your stomach, for example, try having peaked lapels on a single-breasted suit.
Cuffs
Your cuffs should rest just at the point of your wrist joint, about 5cm above your thumb's first knuckle. Sleeves that are too long will throw the whole suit out of balance and make it look badly fitted. Ideally, you should aim to show about 1cm of shirt cuff.
Trousers
People think that flat-fronted trousers are best for slim men when, in fact, the opposite is true. Pleats add detail to trousers, drawing your eye to the waist. If you are on the heavy side then flat-fronted trousers can be a great way to draw the emphasis to another part of your outfit.
Johnson & Co Fine Tailors, 07836 377612, www.johnsontailors.com offers a come-to-you visiting tailor service. Prices from £550 for a suit.
Photo Wilvorst
